Carla Fredd

Contemporary Romance Author

muslin

A very late “Year in Review” 2008

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Last year, I sewed two garments that I can actually wear and I knitted 3 items and one sock.

This seems like very little output for the year.  It’s not.

My sewing time line was:

February:  made muslin for McCall’s M5522 view A and learned about Full Bust Adjustments

March: discovered Burda World of Fashion and Burda Plus magazines!

April: made muslin of New Look 6395 skirt.  It fits.  I didn’t make a skirt..don’t ask me why.

May – July:  Took sewing classes.  Bought a “new to me” Bernina machine.  made many, many muslins of drafted skirt pattern that didn’t quite work.

August:  made many muslins of Vogue 7903 view C blouse.  Learned how to do FBA…whoo-hoo!  Bought a used serger.  Made BWOF 04/2008/131 skirt.  The first garment that I actually could wear.

September-November:  Began V7903 and then tried to figure out what was wrong with the sleeves of V7903.

December:  Made Kwik Sew 2740 muslins.  I made a  mock turtleneck shirt of Kwik Sew 2740.

I don’t know how many muslins I’ve sewn in 2008 but it was a lot!!!!

My knitting production was much better.

January:  started Nautilus Hat and Jessica’s scraf

February: finished Nautilus Hat

September:  finished Jessica’s scraf.  I’ve had the yarn and pattern for at least ten years.  I was afraid to use the yarn and my skill was great ten years ago.

October:  made fetching fingerless gloves.

November: made my first sock.

What I’ve noticed that I don’t knit consistently during the year.  Once the weather gets warm, the knitting needles go into hibernation. 🙂

This year, I plan to learn how to make fitting adjust ment s to patterns.  Last year, I  learn how to do a FBA.  In January, I read Burda’s sewing workshop on extreme swayback (aka…you got a big ol’ bootie) which makes skirts ride up in the back and hang low in the front.   I’m making a muslin of New Look 6395 skirt, to check the final fit.  I need to learn how to insert sleeves without the puckers and wrinkles.  Hopefully, I’ll learn more at EXPO this week.  A few hours until Expo…whoo hoo!

Take 2, Kwik Sew 2740

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Muslin2 Shoulders correct

Muslin number 2 is a much better fit. The shoulders work.  I think the shirt is too small for me.  My friends say I should try Spanx and I probably will after seeing these photos.

I made a mistake on one of the sleeves.  I took it apart and sewed the seam again but…

Opps!

 
Opps!

I think I’m ready to find some nice heavier knit and make my first top.

Kwik Sew 2740 Muslin

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I made Kwik Sew 2740 after looking at what everyone said on Pattern Review.  The pattern was very easy and I will make it again.  I did have one fitting issue.  I have narrow shoulders.

Shoulders are too big
Shoulders are too big

I looked to Pattern Review boards to search for a fix and found one.  A few people recommened Sandra Betzina’s book Fast Fit and joy o joy I have it on my bookshelf.  I made her suggest alterations on the pattern.  This weekend, I will try it on fabric.

The other fitting issue I had was my fault.  I made the sleeves way to long.

Sleeves to long
Sleeves too long

I’m looking forward to making this pattern again.  This was my first serger construction project.  I did make mistakes like not having the correct needle tension.  Now, the seams look like tailor tacks before you cut them.

Finally a skirt that fits…

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I’ve been having fitting issues. Nothing I’ve sewn so far has fit. I’m now taking a beginning sewing class and I’m learning a lot. But back to fitting issues. I got tired of it so I pulled out my Jones of New York red skirt that fits me very well. Measured it and looked at the measure measurements of New Look 6395. They were almost an exact match. My red skirt is very different from the New Look. New Look skirt is cut on a bias so it kind of floaty. The fabric of my red skirt is cut on the grain. This weekend I made the muslin and it fit!

This wasn’t a slam dunk. I had really hard time with that darn zipper. I must have taken it out at least seven times and I’m not joking. The instructions for the lap zipper are awful!!!! I finally end up searching Youtube. and found this video. It’s great and after watching it several times, I inserted my zipper.

I’m not posting a picture of the muslin. I hope to make a skirt this week. A skirt that I can actually wear.

On the sewing front

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I’m almost done with the Simplicity 3634 skirt. All I have left is the hem. Here’s a picture of the muslin.

3634 View F skirt

I had my mother pen the hem but it wasn’t even. I’d read about skirt markers so I bought one this weekend. This one.

Skirt Marker

It worked fine but I’ve got to get use to squeezing the bulb every few inches. I missed most of the back hem.

Hancock’s and Jo-Ann’s are having huge Labor Day sales this past weekend and I took advantage of it. In addition to the skirt marker, I bought two Olfa rotary cutters(45mm & 28mm), rotary cutter mat(25″x18″), and 5 patterns. McCall’s is on sale for $1.99, Vogue $3.99 at Jo-Ann’s.

 

Well, back to the skirt. I’m not sure if it’s the fabric or the pattern or my sewing skills (or lack thereof) but I’m not happy with the skirt. I’ll try the pattern again when it’s cooler with a heavier fabric. I had to make alterations (take in the waist -note the pins on the left -and go up a size in the hip).

pin fit

I traced the pattern unto tissue paper. The front and back use the same pattern piece. I think I’m going to make two separate pattern pieces (one for front and one for the back). I think this will take the guesswork out of my alterations.

 

In the mean time I found Vogue V8424. I traced the pattern tonight and plan to cut the remainder of the muslin tomorrow. I used my rotary cutter and mat for the first time today. I love, love, love it. The cuts are straight and neat. I’m a convert. Here’s a picture of the muslin for the Vogue skirt. I like it.

Vogue V8424

 

I need a cutting table especially if I continue to trace the patterns and I think I will. That will be on my list of sewing items to buy.

 

Here’s my list of sewing items to buy

  1. Rotary cutter mat (big one to go on cutting table)
  2. Pattern weights of some kind
  3. Dress form
  4. Serger (I’m thinking Brother 1034D)
  5. Sewing table
  6. Cutting table
  7. extra sewing machine needles
  8. metal hip curve
  9. hand needles (milliner’s & ballpoint)
  10. Rotary cutters (28mm & 45mm)
  11. Rotary mat (small one)
  12. Skirt marker
  13. Graphite paper

 

 

Everything left on the list with the exception of the pattern weights costs over $100 (sigh) and I want them all…right now. Well, I’ll have to wait. I think I’m going watch the boards and eBay and see if I can get a few of the items used.

I went to Home Depot. I bought 16 washers (5/8 inch cut) from the hardware aisle to use as pattern weights. I’ll buy more because they worked so well.

 

Right now I’m going to practice sewing skirts. I’ve heard that’s the easiest garment to make. Once I get skirts down then I’ll start on tops and pants. I’ve tried to make tops (see pictures below).

Simplicity 3750

Simplicity 3887

I haven’t mastered the full bust adjustment yet. From what I’ve read on sewing blogs and in sewing books, you need to start with a dart. My first top pattern didn’t have a dart and that threw me off for a while. Then I bought a copy of Fit for Real People and learned you just draw a dart when you want it. It helped knowing that but I’m not ready to tackle that just yet.

Stay tuned for my skirt sewing adventure….